Richard Thompson, the man behind London bespoke suitmaker Exclusive Tailoring, gives his tips for ensuring your suit matches the occasion
Richard Thompson, the designer behind Exclusive Tailoring, says that the big three choices grooms have to make are fit, colour, style. Fit always comes first, says Richard: “I would strongly recommend getting your measurements done by a professional. Professional measuring is a corner that some people do cut, however, if your suit doesn’t fit properly when you go to try it on, getting alterations done can be even more costly.” So how do you determine if the fit is right? Richard suggests the suit should feel snug but comfortable, whether you are walking, standing or sitting down. Pay particular attention to how it feels around legs and chest – neither should feel too tight.
Colour and style are just as important. While Richard says tuxedos are popular right now, it can be good to opt for a slightly different look – choosing a midnight blue rather than black or opting for a centre rather than side vent. A tux isn’t your only option. Richard says: “A three-piece suit never fails to look incredibly smart. Again, to be a little different, choose a peak lapel. Most people like to go for something they can wear again, such as lighter shades of blue and grey.”
Richard says it’s important to look for design details that make you stand out from the rest of the wedding party: “If you’re matching with your father-in-law-to-be on your wedding day, you’ve probably made the wrong decision.” He also suggests you consider which cloth will best suit the season and your location. “A light mohair and a wool mix is always good for a summer wedding as it has a smart finish and is breathable – and the suit will hold its shape, too. Linen is a great option, although bear in mind that it will crumple throughout the day to give a very casual and relaxed look.”
Richard Thompson’s final word of advice is to do your research in advance – and allow enough time, since he finds many grooms leave things until the last minute. Beginning the process early gives you far more options to find the right suit (or go bespoke) to match the occasion and your personal style. And all good tailors can advise on an event-appropriate look, flattering cut for your shape and the best ways to get a timeless look with a fashion-forward edge.
Richard Thompson trained at London College of Fashion and has suited, among others, Lord Sugar. He works by appointment from Goodge Street, W1. exclusivetailoring.co.uk
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